Love in the Time of Las Vegas




On the flight to Las Vegas, Heather, my sassalicious/salacious friend who likes to front like she’s tough, cracked and cried and gushed about how much she loves her husband. To be fair, she’s terrified of flying and was flying (high!) under the influence of two Ativans and three vodka cranberries.

Please note: very very bad combination. Do not try this at home, or anywhere. It gets messy. Heather knocked my laptop off the seat tray and then knocked her drink into my purse and later knocked boots with her camera in the airport bathroom. To summarize: inadvisable.

I digress. This is part three of my Las Vegas trilogy. Las Vegas is all about money and sex and I’ve mused about the meaning of those things already. So now let’s talk about the place – other than Las Vegas – where money and sex unite and ignite: marriage.

Kelly: Do you get butterflies about Tyler? Or is he like an old shoe?
Heather: What kind of shoe are we talking about? Be specific.
Kelly: I don’t know. He’s your shoe.
Heather: Yeah, I do. Last time he went away…when he came back, I got the butterflies.
Kelly: Like your stomach flipped over?
Heather: I had been alone with the kids for three and half days/years. I was REALLY happy to see him.
Kelly: If Tyler wasn’t your husband, would he be one of your best friends?
Heather: If he talked more, or at all, sure…you know, we did the long distance thing before we got together. So I guess we were friends first.
Kelly: How did you talk on the phone if he doesn’t talk?
Heather: He talked then. He worked hard. We talked for hours and hours on the phone. That’s why we had sex on the first date. It was all that talking.
Kelly: Can I write that you had sex on the first date in my blog? Does your mother read my blog?
Heather: Is it in Canadian Living? My mother only reads Canadian Living.
Kelly: We should be fine.

I asked Heather this because she’s my sister from another mother except she’s a reformed tramp. (Reformed in the sense that she only slings it in one direction now because she’s happily married and them’s the rules, usually.) I ask Heather because she’s like me and she’s got what I want. But I ask other people these questions because I wonder – eternally, constantly, with every breath – if passion is a sprint, a marathon, or a long slow walk that keeps rockin’ fifty years later in twin rockers on the porch.

And because love and marriage are everywhere in Las Vegas.

The couple in the row behind us kissed all the way from Bellingham to Las Vegas. In Vegas, there were sex cards galore…and brides. I saw a bride kick a cowboy straight in the shins.

In my head, I cheered on the shin-kicking bride. (I’m a terrible pacifist.) Earlier, that same cowboy was insistently and persistently friendly with me while I tried to have a drink with my colleague and his wife. Cowboy desperately wanted me to meet his friend. He told me his friend had “mustache rights”. This meant nothing to me, but it meant something to my co-worker who got very, very upset.

After Cowboy left, I was brought up to speed on the meaning of mustache rights.

It is not a good pick up line.

Sometimes this human mating game is perplexing and other times just plain unfathomable. Thirty-sex years into it, I’m still figuring out the rules and I like them less and less the more I learn. And one thing that I have learned for sure is that love doesn’t play by the rules – hence our need to make them. We think codes and lines  and boundaries and laws will keep us safe. But love is an outlaw.

And oh, how I love love.

Cowboy’s attempt to play drunken wingman for his mustachioed friend interrupted a great love story. My coworker and his wife were telling me how they met and married.

They were high school sweethearts who broke up when he went off to college. He graduated, got married and stayed married for twenty-four years. He got divorced and got married again for twenty-four months.

In the wake of his second divorce, he signed up at Classmates.com.  A week later, he had a message from his former sweetheart, saying “I don’t know if you remember me…I’m married and living in Florida.”

He wrote back and told her about his life, his divorce, and his pending trip to Florida, asking “Can I take you and your husband to dinner? I’d love to catch up.”

She wrote back “Funny you should mention your divorce…I’m in the middle of a divorce, myself.”

He called her, and when she picked up the phone and it was like they had never stopped talking.

He went to Florida to see her. He started going to Florida every six weeks. Then every four. Then every two. Then he was out of airmiles and free trips and told her that it was time for them to live in the same place. She quit her job and moved to Washington, DC with him.

And then they got married – in Vegas – on January 1, 2003. Every year since then they end and start the year in Las Vegas, the place where they ended their days apart and started their life together.

My big, burly friend – who, a few days earlier at a company dinner introduced me to filet mignon and the Manhattan (steak and bourbon. I like ‘em. Who knew?) and explained to me in abrupt, gruff detail the meaning of Cowboy’s mustache rights – then leaned over to me and said, “I bet you didn ‘t know I was so sensitive, did you?

No I didn’t . But now I do. And I’m so glad I do.

This story – this long, interrupted, lost and found love story – ran honey through my veins.

It could be straight from the pages of Lost and Found Lovers. In a study of 1001 participants, Dr. Nancy Kalish found that lovers who reunite later in life end up staying together (78%) and have an astonishingly low divorce rate of 1.5% compared to the national average of 51%.

That seems to me to be good odds for a gamble, and better odds than most. When it comes to my heart, I like to know my numbers.

Months ago, I wrote that there is research correlating the length, success and happiness of marriages to length of courtship – but not in the way you might expect. The longer the courtship, the shorter the marriage. A courtship longer than thirty-one months predicts divorce within one to four years. Couples who marry in haste - nine to eighteen months after starting a relationship - make it past the seven year mark and report very high levels of marital happiness.

So – don’t trust me, trust Ted Huston, PhD. I’m just wondering about butterflies and new relationship energy and the recipe for happily ever after. So I ask around. I look around. I get around. I poke around in books and libraries and make queries with my bff, Google. And what I’ve noticed is that the happily loved-up people I know seem to have a couple of things in common: it was passion, right away and they liked each other. Like, really really like each other, like spending time together, enjoy each other’s company, and laugh a lot. They hang out. They would be friends even if they weren’t lovers. But they have to be lovers because of all that passion.

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Day 3. The scary, sad side of sex and Las Vegas. And people. Because it is made by us, for us.




I’m all about The Sex but Las Vegas is making me feel like a prude. And confused.

Sure, sex is a great recreational activity. It can have bows and tassels and feathers and giggles. It can also be a spiritual experience and a source of reverence. It is also an industry. I know this is not news. I knew it. But now I really, really know it.

On the strip there are people in bright coloured hoodies that say “Girls Direct” handing out business cards for escorts. The cards have naked women on them. These cards are everywhere, on every corner and scattered on the sidewalks. These cards freak me out. The whole thing freaks me out. I’m not even talking about the sex work. I’m thinking about the people handling and handing out the cards. There are women, who probably don’t have work papers, and who probably work all day at some low-paying job, who stand on corners at night – cold nights – and hand out sex cards advertising women for sale. This makes me sad.

I’m not sure if sex work, per se, makes me sad. It kind of does, because I exhalt sex. I wish it could be like that for everyone. I wonder about strippers and sex workers and porn stars – male and female – and wonder if all sex becomes a job for them. Off duty, do they still have loving, incandescent, transcendant sex? Or does it become boring and a chore and the thing you do for work? In other words, work.

So the sex cards and the newspaper boxes filled with catalogs of naked women have made the usually invisible sex work  visible to me. And the money. The Las Vegas strip is all about the naked hustle. I liked it yesterday but today I’m overwhelmed.

Today has been weird. Today I was by myself which might have made me look like a stray or possibly prey. It brought out the predators. Some were just harmless, awkward, embarassing pick ups. Some were deeply unflattering drunken approaches. The worst was when I was walking just off the strip. A guy slowed down, pulled over, turned on the interior light and rolled down the passenger window. I thought he was going to ask me for directions. But then I realized that he had pulled up his shirt and was twirling his nipple.

What is that? Is that about sex? Is that really a pick up and does he really think that has a chance of success? Or is the thrill in the scary?

contemplating luxury and essentials and the space where they overlap




this is my second vacation this year. my second in four months. my second in five years.

when I go on vacation -  vacate my usual routine – the truths about my life emerge. They stand up. They streak down the street and shimmy naked across the stage.

this is appropriate. I am in Las Vegas, which might be the official world capital of shimmying. (My people!) Our plane rejoined the earth in the evening and the city lit up the Nevada sky. It shimmered. It knocked me out. Long ago, my visit to the Vatican made me angry. The accretion of wealth in the hands of the few and the selfless selfish made me seethe through the Sistine chapel. My visit to Las Vegas – with its worship of the quick buck and its  fake Venice and copied ceiling murals and faux Paris and wannabe New York – has me dazzled. There is something pure about pure money love. It is primal and visceral and naked when it is naked. I respect naked. That’s the truth.

and as I sit on the balcony of my gorgeous suite surveying the incandescent strip, I’m thinking about money and vacations and luxury.

vacations teach me about luxury. they teach me about essentials and sometimes the two are one.

once I had two babies less than two. when I gave myself permission to fantasize, my fantasy was this: to check into a hotel with a great bed and soft sheets and cable – oh cable – and sleep for eight hours, uninterrupted. mmmmmmmmmm.

and this vacation echoes and underlines that the reality of that fantasy. the most essential luxury in my  life - besides love – is to sleep until I wake. unprompted. rested.